As you may or may not recall, the Berlin-based designers made their NYFW debut last season during VFILES FW16 lineup, a show that’s become notorious for predicting which brands will be making waves in the seasons to come. (Fun Fact: The design duo behind Ottolinger, Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, were actually the head creatives for YEEZY Season 4, which was the most hyped show in New York Fashion Week’s roster. Sums it up, really.)

The show was something of an “industry insider” affair. Kardashians didn’t pull up with hordes of paparazzi following suit. Kanye fanboys and “But I’m on the list” types were kept at bay. Instead, the function attracted an eclectic mix of seasoned fashion industry personnel that included everyone from 032c‘s Marc Göhring and Instagram “It” model Sita Abellan to LA’s leading style consultant Aleali May and retail temple GR8 Tokyo’s Mitsuhiro Kubo.

The show was something of an “industry insider” affair. Kardashians didn’t pull up with hordes of paparazzi following suit. Kanye fanboys and “But I’m on the list” types were kept at bay. Instead, the function attracted an eclectic mix of seasoned fashion industry personnel that included everyone from 032c‘s Marc Göhring and Instagram “It” model Sita Abellan to LA’s leading style consultant Aleali May and retail temple GR8 Tokyo’s Mitsuhiro Kubo.

The clothes’ deconstructive aesthetic, while aggressive, did manage to spit glimpses of femininity on par with couture. Skirts and trousers appeared as if they had been stuffed into a blender. Elegant silk slip dresses were slit and ruffled at the bottom. Pant suits were crafted out of black PVC leather (giving them a fetishistic flair fitting with the show’s kinky narrative), tees were emblazoned with photographs of cows and stiletto boots were mummified with duct tape.

If you haven’t been to Berlin before, experiencing Ottolinger’s show gave a pretty accurate portrayal of the city’s defining characteristics: a punkish non-conformist attitude, unorthodox sexuality and, of course, techno. In the ’90s, Berlin’s mayor Klaus Wowereit tried to attract creative types to the city by declaring “Berlin ist arm, aber sexy” (poor but sexy). Clearly, he has.

Be sure to follow SS17 to stay au courant with all of this season’s Fashion Week happenings. 

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